Yufuin Tamanoyu: A Luxury Ryokan Stay in Japan

Hey everyone, keen for a bit of a travel yarn? I recently had the pleasure of staying at Yufuin Tamanoyu, a top-tier ryokan (traditional Japanese inn) in Yufuin, Japan, and wanted to share my experience.

Before we dive in, here are a few things you might be wondering about:

• ✔️ Is it worth the price tag?
• ✔️ Is it hard to book?
• ✔️ What’s the food like?

Let me tell you, it’s definitely worth the splurge if you’re looking for a luxurious and relaxing getaway. Booking can be tricky, especially during peak season, but well worth the effort. And the food? Absolutely incredible!

The Lowdown on Yufuin Tamanoyu

The perks? This place is all about tranquility and top-notch service. The 12 PM checkout is a dream, and the kaiseki (multi-course) meals are just divine. Not too heavy, but packed with flavour.

The downsides? Well, it’s super popular, so snagging a booking, especially during holidays, can be a mission. It’s also a traditional place, so if you’re after flashy resort-style facilities, you might find it a bit quiet.

Cost-wise, expect to pay around 90,000 to 120,000 yen per night (that’s about $950 – $1250 AUD) for two people, including dinner and breakfast, on weekdays. Weekends will be a bit more, depending on the room and time of year.

Pro Tip: Definitely make use of the hinoki (cypress) bath in your room – the water is straight from the source. For breakfast, go for the Western-style option, especially the French toast with fresh cress soup. And don’t miss the free drinks and snacks in the guest lounge in the evenings. The shop, Yufuin Ichi, sells the tableware used in the restaurant, so if you like something, grab it before you leave!

Getting There and Exploring Yufuin

I kicked things off on December 30th, catching the “Sonic 1” express train to Yufuin. Those headrests on the JR Kyushu trains, they’re designed like Mickey Mouse ears. You can’t miss them!

The train was pretty packed, which just shows how popular the onsen are. When I got to Oita Station, it had a lovely, local vibe. I switched to a local train and enjoyed the scenery – it’s all part of the experience.

Yufuin Station was under construction, but it still had a buzz about it. Dipping my hands in the warm water at “Hinoshin” was a treat, especially with the 10-degree chill in the air. Haha!

I got lost on the way to drop off my bags, even though I’ve been there a few times before. But hey, it meant I got to enjoy the backstreets of Yufuin a little longer. It’s always a good thing.

Lunch and Lakeside Strolls

Lunch was at “Hanano Soba,” one of my favourites. I got there early and scored a good seat. Their egg omelette is incredible, I almost ordered another one.

The shiitake mushroom soba noodles were also top-notch, with the perfect broth. I didn’t leave a drop!

After lunch, instead of the crowded Yunotsubo Street, I took a walk along the banks of the Oita River. The view of Mount Yufu was spectacular, with the clouds lifting to reveal its full glory.

It was really peaceful walking along the river, and I spotted some egrets and ducks. Nature was definitely putting on a show, even in the cold weather.

Coffee and Pre-Ryokan Exploration

I ended up at the entrance to “Kame no Ido Villa,” but I decided to save it for another trip. Instead, I waited 40 minutes for a table at the “Tenjosanjaku” cafe.

While I waited, I checked out the shop “Kagiya” on the first floor, which has some beautiful Imari porcelain and local specialities. It was a feast for the eyes.

After a quick look at the clear waters of Lake Kinrin, it was finally my turn. I was seated upstairs in a space converted from an old brewery – the Gregorian chants created a really unique atmosphere.

I sat by a window overlooking the garden and enjoyed a strong blend coffee and a slice of cheesecake. It was a lovely afternoon.

Checking In to Yufuin Tamanoyu

Finally, it was time to check into Tamanoyu. The entrance, along a path through the woods, was decorated for the New Year. It had a really nice atmosphere.

I had a welcome tea and a local sweet called Yure in the lounge while the check-in process was smooth. The staff were all so polite, which made me feel relaxed. It’s that kind of service that makes the ryokan special.

My Room: A Western-Style Suite

The room I got was a unique one, with two Western-style rooms. I’d never had this type before, but the underfloor heating made the whole space warm and cosy.

It was a nice, open layout with a sofa and a TV that let you watch YouTube. It had all the modern conveniences you could want. They even provided free drinks in the fridge, which was a nice touch.

I went out to the terrace, but it was too cold, so I headed back in. The bed had an Airweave mattress, which guaranteed a good night’s sleep. In the closet, there were clean yukata robes, thick coats, and comfy pyjamas.

The Onsen Experience

The bathroom had fresh flowers, so it smelled amazing. The indoor bath had a big window with water from the natural hot spring constantly flowing in. It felt like a semi-outdoor bath.

The cypress bathtub felt so smooth, and the warm water just melted away any stress. There were plenty of towels, so it was all very comfortable.

The onsen in your room is great, but the outdoor bath in the main onsen is a must. The water temperature was perfect. It was just right for relaxing.

There was no one else there, so it felt like I had the whole place to myself. Haha!

The Kaiseki Dinner

Dinner was an amazing experience, served in a private room. The meal started with natural mountain yam and seasonal vegetables, followed by fresh amberjack sashimi. The flavours really came through.

The turtle soup was as rich and flavourful as ever. And the presentation of each dish was a work of art.

The simmered dishes were also incredible, with a depth of flavour that was hard to beat. The main course was a fillet steak, which was seared on the outside and juicy in the middle. It melted in my mouth.

A little salt was all it needed. It was a memorable meal, and I felt like I was being treated like royalty.

The rice was cooked to perfection, the grains were all separate, and it was a real testament to the quality of the Yufuin rice. The meal ended with sweet Amaou strawberries and egg ice cream. Couldn’t have asked for a better finish.

I finished the night in the lounge with coffee. It’s the little things that make a ryokan stay special.

Breakfast and Souvenir Shopping

On New Year’s Eve, I had a leisurely breakfast at 9 AM. The Western-style set with freshly squeezed mandarin juice and cress soup was delicious.

The oven-baked egg, made with Tatsumi Yoshiko’s recipe, was so soft and filling. And the French toast, with a generous helping of honey, was perfect.

After breakfast, I checked out the shop “Yufuin Ichi” for some souvenirs. The Arita-yaki porcelain and the local crafts were all so beautiful. They had a great selection of handmade goods, which are perfect for gifts.

Wrapping Up

I checked out at noon, and then I grabbed an apple pie at “Lounge Nicole.” The flaky pastry and the sweetness of the apples were fantastic. It was a great way to end the trip.

It was a truly memorable stay at Tamanoyu, and now I’m off to my next destination.